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  • Thursday, July 31, 2014

    First Day on the Kerry Way Trail

    This is the long straight road out of Kenmare
    Black face? In this day and age? That is so offensive.

    When I turned to look at the view behind me, I nearly climbed over this fence to set camp on a hill. It was just so beautiful. Since I had a couple more hours of daylight, I convinced myself to keep going.

    Have I mentioned I love Ireland?
    The sun set, so I setup camp next to the road, the only
    flat piece of ground suitable for a tent for the last few miles.

    I didn't realize until after I set up, but just to the left of my tent, a sign clearly says "no camping." I would be up early, so didn't expect to see anyone. Then I saw a woman hiking down the trail. "Oh... Hello. I didn't think I would see anyone out here," she said. "Yeah me either," I said. "Which is why I felt safe setting up camp here."

    Last Day on the Beara Way

    I found a flat piece of bedrock and sat here for lunch.
    West Ireland is full of great places to stop for lunch.

    Sheep tend to run from me, but this old guy didn't budge.
    If I had horns like that, I'd make my own rules too.

    Ireland is as green as I imagined before arriving. What I didn't know is that it rarely snows. Although at about the same latitude as parts of Alaska, the Gulf Stream keeps Ireland mostly free of snow and ice.
    I also found a lot of solitude and daily ocean views on the Beara Way. I'll miss this section, but there is a lot more to come.

    Wednesday, July 30, 2014

    Ardmore House B&B

    Every person I talked to on my way to Kenmare in County Kerry said the same thing, "Did you hear about the storm heading our way?" So heaving rain and lightning were on my mind as I walked into Kenmare at sunset.

    Kenmare was the first decent-sized town on my route, so it was also my first resupply. I needed groceries and some pills to help me sleep with nightly leg and foot pain. Kenmare is a tourist town with pubs packed with people late into the night. Finding a place to stealth camp may have been difficult, and there was still the matter of the storm.

    I decided to book a room for the night. Thanks to a donation from James from Illinois, I was able to fit this into my budget. James picked up Red and I when we were hitchhiking across the US in May.

    When I arrived, the owner Thomas immediately brought me a tray of coffee and biscuits. I grabbed the skeleton key out of my door and sipped my coffee in the living room while talking to Thomas about my trip and Ireland. He was great! That night, thunder cracked closely overhead and it poured harder than I've seen it pour in Ireland, so far. I was very thankful to be under a roof.

    Thank you for your donation James!

    Spotted some rowers when crossing Kenmare Bay on a suspension bridge,
    which claims to be the first suspension bridge built in Ireland. 
    You know how amazing this looks after living outdoors for a while?

    Kenmare Town Centre